stridemat
May 3, 02:39 PM
Download and install Flash.
http://get.adobe.com/flashplayer
http://get.adobe.com/flashplayer
DoghouseMike
May 4, 12:42 AM
Looks pretty good, it's a "fast G4", so youtube will probably be watchable, if not silky smooth, moreso if you install clicktoflash and dodge the flash version of the video.
If there's an airport card installed, it'll work, if not you'll need to buy one and install it yourself (see ifixit.com for instructions, and everymac, lowendmac, or mactracker to confirm, but I think it's an "airport extreme" card), or get one of them usb dongle type things.
It's a pretty sweet machine, but you have now posted it on a public forum, so the bidding might get a bit out of hand!?
If there's an airport card installed, it'll work, if not you'll need to buy one and install it yourself (see ifixit.com for instructions, and everymac, lowendmac, or mactracker to confirm, but I think it's an "airport extreme" card), or get one of them usb dongle type things.
It's a pretty sweet machine, but you have now posted it on a public forum, so the bidding might get a bit out of hand!?
Michaelgtrusa
May 6, 09:49 PM
Yep! Don't rely on the Best Buy web site. I called around and they had the new iMac's in stock and on sale! Just picked mine up.
On sale by how much?
On sale by how much?
DakotaGuy
Feb 9, 01:57 PM
Not at the same time, you can't. :p
What good is doing it all at the same time if you can't keep the call connected?;)
What good is doing it all at the same time if you can't keep the call connected?;)
more...
queve
Apr 12, 10:40 AM
Anyone? Please?
FFTT
Sep 17, 06:50 PM
Your dual 1.8 GHz machine only has a total of 4 DIMM slots.
It can hold a total of 4 GB RAM with 2 matched pairs
of 1 GB DIMMS
You currently have 2 of your total 4 DIMM slots occupied with the stock RAM.
If you go to Crucial you need to select your model
and the appropriate offerings will be displayed.
Same thing with OWC ( www.macsales.com.)
They sell factory original Apple/Samsung RAM
If you want to add a total 1 GB you need to purchase
a pair of 512 sticks.
RAM has gotten so affordable, you might want to hold off till you can afford a pair of 1 GB sticks
and ramp that puppy up another 2GB.
It can hold a total of 4 GB RAM with 2 matched pairs
of 1 GB DIMMS
You currently have 2 of your total 4 DIMM slots occupied with the stock RAM.
If you go to Crucial you need to select your model
and the appropriate offerings will be displayed.
Same thing with OWC ( www.macsales.com.)
They sell factory original Apple/Samsung RAM
If you want to add a total 1 GB you need to purchase
a pair of 512 sticks.
RAM has gotten so affordable, you might want to hold off till you can afford a pair of 1 GB sticks
and ramp that puppy up another 2GB.
more...
nlivo
Jan 14, 07:37 PM
macworld is more exciting for me but that's only because the websites fuel the excitement. With Christmas there is nothing that builds the hype for you.
-aggie-
Apr 11, 08:21 AM
Hi,
Yeah, the credit is the points - in this case 481 points.
However, these WU (and all the other SMP core_A3 and core_A5 ones) also qualify for Quick Return Bonus Points.
Basically, there is a sliding scale that rewards quick return with more points. This is done to encourage people to just run one client quickly, rather than multiple ones more slowly.
However, to qualify for these bonus points (that are often worth 10 times the base points), you'll need a passkey - see here:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1073565
You can calculate how many points you expect to receive here:
http://linuxforge.net/bonuscalc2.php
Hope that helps
Rob
Thanks. So, when do they score the bonus points? I only have the base points (481) so far, but should’ve gotten 968 more points.
Yeah, the credit is the points - in this case 481 points.
However, these WU (and all the other SMP core_A3 and core_A5 ones) also qualify for Quick Return Bonus Points.
Basically, there is a sliding scale that rewards quick return with more points. This is done to encourage people to just run one client quickly, rather than multiple ones more slowly.
However, to qualify for these bonus points (that are often worth 10 times the base points), you'll need a passkey - see here:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1073565
You can calculate how many points you expect to receive here:
http://linuxforge.net/bonuscalc2.php
Hope that helps
Rob
Thanks. So, when do they score the bonus points? I only have the base points (481) so far, but should’ve gotten 968 more points.
more...
tsugaru
May 7, 03:45 AM
What's the difference anyway (besides of the brand)?
Is one faster? more silent? more durable?
Seagate has gone down in the last couple of years in terms of build quality and reliability. I have had nothing but good things to say about Western Digital drives.
The current iMac 27" I have (the 3rd one I've received from Apple,) was fitted with a Seagate drive. I regret not keeping the first iMac I received with the cracked glass, as that had a Western Digital drive in it. The WD drive was much quieter. Performance is probably a wash, but I'll take the silence anyday, short of putting a Green/5x00rpm drive inside.
I know the 2TB WD Caviar Blacks are fairly loud, but my new one is staying with a 1TB drive. Hope I get the WD.
Is one faster? more silent? more durable?
Seagate has gone down in the last couple of years in terms of build quality and reliability. I have had nothing but good things to say about Western Digital drives.
The current iMac 27" I have (the 3rd one I've received from Apple,) was fitted with a Seagate drive. I regret not keeping the first iMac I received with the cracked glass, as that had a Western Digital drive in it. The WD drive was much quieter. Performance is probably a wash, but I'll take the silence anyday, short of putting a Green/5x00rpm drive inside.
I know the 2TB WD Caviar Blacks are fairly loud, but my new one is staying with a 1TB drive. Hope I get the WD.
grabberslasher
Nov 14, 05:18 AM
Just in case anybody is interested...
I made a simple CoreImage test app to try and get to grips with CoreImage. It's not very advanced but it can do a number of effects and is fun to play with.
I need somebody to host it for the moment because I'm away from my webserver so if anybody can do that then it will be available for download.
Requires a CoreImage compatible graphics card that is Quartz2DExtreme capable. Works nice and smoothly on my 17" Powerbook (Most recent gen).
http://img119.exs.cx/img119/1324/ci.jpg
I made a simple CoreImage test app to try and get to grips with CoreImage. It's not very advanced but it can do a number of effects and is fun to play with.
I need somebody to host it for the moment because I'm away from my webserver so if anybody can do that then it will be available for download.
Requires a CoreImage compatible graphics card that is Quartz2DExtreme capable. Works nice and smoothly on my 17" Powerbook (Most recent gen).
http://img119.exs.cx/img119/1324/ci.jpg
more...
baryon
Mar 17, 06:18 AM
Calibrate your monitor!
Maybe do some research before you say that:
276541
A color sampled from the Graphite button with RGB values of 81 / 92 / 108.
276542
The same color, showing that it has a blueish hue.
Maybe do some research before you say that:
276541
A color sampled from the Graphite button with RGB values of 81 / 92 / 108.
276542
The same color, showing that it has a blueish hue.
tjwett
Jul 6, 12:06 PM
congrats on the switch! first thing i always do is run Software Update and download any updates you need. there should be a bunch depending on when your machine left the factory. after that you should run Disk Utility and fix all permissions. then i like to setup my preferences and go. maybe import your music from another machine. unless you're really in love with partitioning your HD then go for it but i think you'll find that the standard system setup is capable of keeping your machine very organized. you'll see. enjoy!
more...
alphaone
Mar 6, 01:25 AM
I'm really curious to see how the mobile chips compare to my 2600k. I'll put something together tomorrow.
alust2013
Apr 4, 12:03 AM
If it does what you need it to, and does it to your liking, I don't think there is any reason to upgrade.
more...
cbegf
Nov 13, 09:26 PM
It of course shouldn't matter, but you are using the shift key below the caps lock?
I'm about at the limit of my knowledge from what I remember about these sorry.
Maybe someone else can jump in with some ideas?
Seems odd that it will not boot without extensions, or if it is getting to that point even?
yup and no prob thank you for the help yeah it just goes right to the screen saver and will not let me click on anything.
I'm about at the limit of my knowledge from what I remember about these sorry.
Maybe someone else can jump in with some ideas?
Seems odd that it will not boot without extensions, or if it is getting to that point even?
yup and no prob thank you for the help yeah it just goes right to the screen saver and will not let me click on anything.
Yvan256
Sep 29, 08:09 AM
I've been using Keynote lately for work presentations. It's annoying not to be able to give them to PC co-workers. PPT such a piece of crap, and i'd like to be able to use keynote more, but sadly it's not super useful anywhere other than my computer.
Export to Quicktime presentation, install Quicktime on PCs.
edit: kayjprod beat me to it.
Export to Quicktime presentation, install Quicktime on PCs.
edit: kayjprod beat me to it.
more...
MacBytes
Jun 11, 11:16 AM
http://www.macbytes.com/images/bytessig.gif (http://www.macbytes.com)
Category: 3rd Party Hardware
Link: Samsung to Apple: Our Screens Are Still Better (http://www.macbytes.com/link.php?sid=20100611121632)
Description:: Samsung Electronics has thrown down the gauntlet to Apple, saying the iPhone's display technology is no competitive threat.
Posted on MacBytes.com (http://www.macbytes.com)
Approved by Mudbug
Category: 3rd Party Hardware
Link: Samsung to Apple: Our Screens Are Still Better (http://www.macbytes.com/link.php?sid=20100611121632)
Description:: Samsung Electronics has thrown down the gauntlet to Apple, saying the iPhone's display technology is no competitive threat.
Posted on MacBytes.com (http://www.macbytes.com)
Approved by Mudbug
Matth3w
May 2, 06:53 PM
Yep, I said non-slim. Reason being, I have a smaller shoulder bag for it on a day to day basis. But the bag doesn't hold much. So if I want to take it in my book bag, either of the bags I have, have larger pockets for laptops.
So I either am looking for a case that is hard and larger, or a book bag with a better (smaller) pocket for a thin laptop.
I've spent hours on Google but I keep finding the manila carrying case for example...I don't want something like that.
So I either am looking for a case that is hard and larger, or a book bag with a better (smaller) pocket for a thin laptop.
I've spent hours on Google but I keep finding the manila carrying case for example...I don't want something like that.
tekkierich
Feb 18, 10:55 AM
Hi Guys & Gals,
I'm going to make the jump to an Intel SSD this weekend to replace my stock 320GB (5400 RPM) Drive in the 2010 Mac Mini.
Those of you that have actually done this, did you find that the Logic Board really needed to be shifted at all? I've been looking at the OWC installation Video and it would seem to me that the drive will lift out over the Logic Board without moving the board at all. It would mean that I would only have to detach the first SATA and two heat connectors. The least amount of connectors I have to pull the better I would assume. Also, I'm thinking that the black vinyl covering wrapped around the 320GB drive is there to protect the moving/electrical drive components on the bottom of the drive, which I would not need on the SSD. I know that I need/should replace the piece of tape to hold the heat sensor wire on the new SSD.
Any help would be great.....:)
2010 Mac Mini (2.4MHz - 8GB RAM Intel 80GB SSD(pending)) Air Port Extreme, 2TB Mini Stack External Dive, 16GB WiFi iPad, 32GB iPhone 3GS.
I have not done an SSD per say, but I have made a little side business upgrading the hard drive on 2010 Mac Mini's and selling them on ebay. After having done 10 or so of these, yes you do need to pull the logic board out slightly. The hard drive will not lift up enough to give you the angle you need clear the logic board with out pulling it out.
That said, only pull it out enough to see a small gap of air between the black beisl in the rear and the alum case.
WRT the heat sensors... I have found that the smallest amount of rubber cement works well if you you loose the adhesive when transferring the sensor. 8/10 times you will have plenty of stick left though and wont need to add any.
The black cover I have also assumed was there for air flow as well. If the SSD has a smooth surface, and no logic board to short, you probably can do away with it.
I'm going to make the jump to an Intel SSD this weekend to replace my stock 320GB (5400 RPM) Drive in the 2010 Mac Mini.
Those of you that have actually done this, did you find that the Logic Board really needed to be shifted at all? I've been looking at the OWC installation Video and it would seem to me that the drive will lift out over the Logic Board without moving the board at all. It would mean that I would only have to detach the first SATA and two heat connectors. The least amount of connectors I have to pull the better I would assume. Also, I'm thinking that the black vinyl covering wrapped around the 320GB drive is there to protect the moving/electrical drive components on the bottom of the drive, which I would not need on the SSD. I know that I need/should replace the piece of tape to hold the heat sensor wire on the new SSD.
Any help would be great.....:)
2010 Mac Mini (2.4MHz - 8GB RAM Intel 80GB SSD(pending)) Air Port Extreme, 2TB Mini Stack External Dive, 16GB WiFi iPad, 32GB iPhone 3GS.
I have not done an SSD per say, but I have made a little side business upgrading the hard drive on 2010 Mac Mini's and selling them on ebay. After having done 10 or so of these, yes you do need to pull the logic board out slightly. The hard drive will not lift up enough to give you the angle you need clear the logic board with out pulling it out.
That said, only pull it out enough to see a small gap of air between the black beisl in the rear and the alum case.
WRT the heat sensors... I have found that the smallest amount of rubber cement works well if you you loose the adhesive when transferring the sensor. 8/10 times you will have plenty of stick left though and wont need to add any.
The black cover I have also assumed was there for air flow as well. If the SSD has a smooth surface, and no logic board to short, you probably can do away with it.
nullx86
Jan 21, 10:33 PM
I need an invite :p
MacHamster68
May 24, 10:34 AM
WOW! that is a hell of a price. I thought �700 for mine with an upgrade was tasty!
tasty yes ,but for me it was worth every pence to get one in pristine condition with not a single sign of wear
tasty yes ,but for me it was worth every pence to get one in pristine condition with not a single sign of wear
thesmileman
Apr 30, 08:36 AM
But we can't buy it, yet, at Stonebriar. Correct?
Any idea how many they have in stock?
We can buy it at 5pm.
I don't know how many they have i talked to them yesterday and they hadn't even got them yet. I know several other people who are comming at 11:00am to wait but i thought i would get ere first. I will update when i find out any information.
Any idea how many they have in stock?
We can buy it at 5pm.
I don't know how many they have i talked to them yesterday and they hadn't even got them yet. I know several other people who are comming at 11:00am to wait but i thought i would get ere first. I will update when i find out any information.
jamper
May 4, 03:05 PM
my mid 2010 21,5" imac does that sound. when i lift him off the table the sound disappears.
It's something vibrating
It's something vibrating
tuqqer
Dec 11, 02:05 PM
I've never been so baffled by a Mac behavior. Wondering if someone can help.
Just purchased two weeks ago a "new" refurb iBook from Apple's site, a 14" 1.3Ghz with a gig of new RAM.
The problem: I can't get it to connect wirelessly with our well-established wireless broadband home office. Some helpful details:
*** This iBook connects just fine when plugged into an Ethernet cable.
*** This iBook has connected wirelessly, but only for about a minute or two at a time, and then I get the following error message:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v416/sequoia1234/UpdateError.png
*** We have Comcast cable at our home office, and use a Linksys wireless G WRT54G.
*** We have 2 other iBooks and 1 PowerBook, all connect wirelessly just fine. They're each using DHCP, but I can also assign a fixed IP address, and they work fine with those as well. (I also have a G5 2G, but that's Ethernetted in). All of my Macs have in excess of 1 gig of original RAM, and are all running the most current software updates and 10.4.3.
*** I've used Macs extensively since 1991, and know a fair bit about them.
*** This iBook has had Onyx run a few times on it (in attempts to fix the problem). I've repaired permissions over a dozen times. I've also trashed the following .plist files:
com.apple.internetconfig.plist
com.apple.internetconfigpriv.plist
com.apple.internetconnect.plist
com.apple.internetpref.plist
com.apple.recentitems.plist
*** In this iBook's Network settings, I've tried using DHCP, and the numbers come up identical (with a diff IP address of course) to the other Macs that are connecting wirelessly just fine.
*** The airport card strength (in the right side menu) shows full bars all throughout our home office and house. It's fully lit up.
*** Running Network diagnostics often says "It looks like you are connected to the Internet" but I'm not.
*** I've tried shutting down all the other Macs, to see if they're somehow part of the problem.
*** I've tried setting the IP address manually (over 30 times, with a variety of IP numbers).
*** I opened the keyboard and removed and reseated the Airport Extreme card. Same with the RAM: removed and reseated it. I've restarted the Mac, the router, the modem, honest-to-god even my entire house electrical circuits 'till the cows come home.
*** When I take the iBook to other locations (local cyber cafes, even the Denver Apple store) it lights up like a Christmas tree, and I'm able to wirelessly get on in a heartbeat.
*** When friends stop by (on both Mac and Windows laptops, THEIR computers hook up wirelessly immediately.
As I said, I've never been so baffled. I think: if it was hardware, it wouldn't work at the other locations. If it was the router, or its settings, the other 4 Macs wouldn't connect.
Any ideas?
I will never be so grateful for a fix!!
Just purchased two weeks ago a "new" refurb iBook from Apple's site, a 14" 1.3Ghz with a gig of new RAM.
The problem: I can't get it to connect wirelessly with our well-established wireless broadband home office. Some helpful details:
*** This iBook connects just fine when plugged into an Ethernet cable.
*** This iBook has connected wirelessly, but only for about a minute or two at a time, and then I get the following error message:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v416/sequoia1234/UpdateError.png
*** We have Comcast cable at our home office, and use a Linksys wireless G WRT54G.
*** We have 2 other iBooks and 1 PowerBook, all connect wirelessly just fine. They're each using DHCP, but I can also assign a fixed IP address, and they work fine with those as well. (I also have a G5 2G, but that's Ethernetted in). All of my Macs have in excess of 1 gig of original RAM, and are all running the most current software updates and 10.4.3.
*** I've used Macs extensively since 1991, and know a fair bit about them.
*** This iBook has had Onyx run a few times on it (in attempts to fix the problem). I've repaired permissions over a dozen times. I've also trashed the following .plist files:
com.apple.internetconfig.plist
com.apple.internetconfigpriv.plist
com.apple.internetconnect.plist
com.apple.internetpref.plist
com.apple.recentitems.plist
*** In this iBook's Network settings, I've tried using DHCP, and the numbers come up identical (with a diff IP address of course) to the other Macs that are connecting wirelessly just fine.
*** The airport card strength (in the right side menu) shows full bars all throughout our home office and house. It's fully lit up.
*** Running Network diagnostics often says "It looks like you are connected to the Internet" but I'm not.
*** I've tried shutting down all the other Macs, to see if they're somehow part of the problem.
*** I've tried setting the IP address manually (over 30 times, with a variety of IP numbers).
*** I opened the keyboard and removed and reseated the Airport Extreme card. Same with the RAM: removed and reseated it. I've restarted the Mac, the router, the modem, honest-to-god even my entire house electrical circuits 'till the cows come home.
*** When I take the iBook to other locations (local cyber cafes, even the Denver Apple store) it lights up like a Christmas tree, and I'm able to wirelessly get on in a heartbeat.
*** When friends stop by (on both Mac and Windows laptops, THEIR computers hook up wirelessly immediately.
As I said, I've never been so baffled. I think: if it was hardware, it wouldn't work at the other locations. If it was the router, or its settings, the other 4 Macs wouldn't connect.
Any ideas?
I will never be so grateful for a fix!!
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